Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Most people at some point in their lives develop a "bucket list" of things they want to do or experience during their lifetime.  As time passes, items might be added, while others might be checked off the list.  Like many people, one of the items I had added to my list early on in my life was to hike the Inca Trail.  I don't mean take the 20 minute or so bus ride up to the trail from Aguascalientes either, which is totally fine if that is your choice.  I was looking to immerse myself in the full experience by walking the trail of the Ancient Incas, who lived long ago and built an amazing city at high altitude in the middle of the jagged Andes Mountains, with no modern technology.  I wanted the once in a lifetime experience that I could only get from a 4-day hike on the Inca Trail, where it was just me and the wilderness, and where I was unreachable by phone.  Where I could literally sleep at night under the brightest Milky Way you can imagine because there was absolutely no light pollution, since we were camping in the middle of the longest mountain range on the planet.  Here, even the best and most lavish travel insurance won't cover an emergency.

No, I am not crazy, and I am not alone.  Every year a few thousand people make the same journey, and they all come away with their own amazing memories and a mystical sense of awe once they reach the Sun Gate and peer at the magnificence of Machu Picchu for the first time.  Many experience tears of joy at both the sight and the realization of what they just accomplished over the last several days.  I can honestly say that there isn't a person who makes this hike who is not affected in some, almost spiritual way, when they arrive at the Sun Gate.  I can imagine the Ancient Incas felt the same way on their trek, realizing they had finally reached their destination, and the long sometimes grueling hike was almost over.

In fact, hiking the Inca Trail has become so popular that to preserve it only 500 people are allowed on the trail per day.  This is roughly divided between 200 permits for tourists and 300 for the mandatory accompanying guides and porters.  Guides became a requirement in 2001, and if you would like to carry a lighter daypack throughout your hike in the high-altitude, the extra porters are definitely worth the investment.  Trust me, I speak from experience.  Not only did the porters carry our extra gear, but they also moved ahead of us on the trail setting up an eating tent and providing us delicious and nutritious meals, and they also had our sleeping tents assembled and ready when we finally arrived, including a small bathroom tent.  Our main guide Willy was also incredibly knowledgeable about the ruins and the history of the Inca, which gave all of us something to focus on as we became more winded from the altitude as the hike progressed.  Investing in a reputable and experienced tour company and guides is highly recommended as you will definitely appreciate the little extras and comforts on your multi-day hike. 

Where to start...

So, knowing that I needed a permit to hike the Inca Trail, how did I begin to plan for this "bucket list" event?  I started doing a lot of research which revealed that most tours provided tents of two to four people, per tent on the trail.  I decided on a tour that utilized two-person tents and started asking friends, who claimed to be adventurous, if they were interested in accompanying me.  A couple expressed some interest, but as the time drew nearer for us to pay for the permits and finalize the trip, they all backed out.  

I, however, was not deterred but determined and signed myself up as a party of one.  What better distraction on a several-day journey than to get to know other people and possibly develop new friendships.  I mean, besides walking, especially, in the high altitude and the terrain that awaited, all we could really do was talk and listen.  My friends were astonished that I was still going, and I couldn't help but say to them, "Well, I think we all know who the real adventurer is now!" 

Since the permits sell out almost immediately, I finalized my tour and paid for the trip at the beginning of October, way in advance of the actual trip, which occurred in June.  Something to remember is that each hiking permit is linked to the intended hiker, and the name on the permit must match the name listed in their passport.  This means the permits are not transferrable or refundable. So, if hiking the Inca Trail is something you want to do, you need to plan this WAY in advance.  

Preparing and packing for the big trip

With months to prepare I focused on two things... Maintaining cardiovascular fitness as much as possible to prepare for the high altitude, and making sure I had the right gear.  I am very particular when it comes to gear, and therefore believe in buying high quality gear (which doesn't always mean it is the most expensive) that is reliable and will last.  I have been hiking and trekking for years, and the majority of the time the reason I have gotten rid of items is not because they were broken or no longer safe, but merely because I found something more updated that I liked better.  For those of you who like to take the cheapest route and cut corners on gear, let me caution you, this is one trip when you will want the best gear, as it could literally save your life.  Since you will be hiking through several microclimates during the trip, on many occasions during the same day, dressing in layers is key so you can add them and remove them as needed.   Here are the hiking essentials I packed for the trip and used every day:

• Good hiking boots- make sure they are waterproof and broken in to reduce the chance of blisters.
• Multiple pairs of good hiking socks- that you have tested on hilly terrain and know will not cause your feet to slide forward, allowing your toes to hit the inside of the front of your boot.  If this happens your toenails can either begin to lift or cause blood to build up underneath them, resulting in a very painful hike.
• Moleskin or New Skin/Liquid Skin and band-aids- in case you develop a blister or abrasion.  
• Comfortable quick drying hiking pants and/or shorts- I had 3 pair of quick drying hiking pants where each leg could be unzipped converting them into shorts, although I never used this feature.
• Long sleeve button down UPF 50+ protective shirts- I wore these over ExOfficio t-shirts, which are lightweight, breathable, and quick drying.  These provided sun protection, without having to lather on the sunscreen.  Remember at high altitudes the temperature can be a little cooler, but the sun rays are more intense, and you may not realize you are getting burnt until it is too late.  
• A good wide brimmed hiking hat- with an extended rear neck flap that has a drawstring and/or a clip to attach to a shirt.  The wind can pick up at points along the trail so having a way to secure your hat is important.  The wider the hat the better the protection.  
• Plenty of high SPF sunscreen- for face, arms and lips, which you will re-apply often. 
• Makeup remover wipes and/or wet wipes- I am all about maintaining good hygiene as much as possible, regardless of the circumstances.  Having been in the military, I learned the value of a good "wet wipe wash (W3)", and how maintaining some semblance of cleanliness goes a long way toward supporting better sleep and health during your time(s) in the wilderness.  There are no showers on the trail, so every night I made sure to take my full body W3 in my tent and brush my teeth.  After years of taking these types of baths I have discovered that I prefer to use the wet wipes for cleaning my hands or anything that is really dirty, while I prefer to use the makeup wipes for actually "bathing".  The makeup wipes seem to make me feel cleaner and, in my opinion, leave less residue and don't dry my skin out.  I use Aveeno Positively Radiant makeup removing wipes because they are moisturizing and seem to remove EVERYTHING, including my stubborn deodorant, which I am grateful for during the day but want it to come off at night.  I also used them routinely throughout the day on the hike to freshen up my face, by removing the old sunscreen and sweat on my face and neck, before re-applying.  
• Trekking Poles and rubber tips- Trekking poles are a must when hiking the Inca trail.  Your knees and legs will thank you as you will be able to shift some of the weight to your arms when climbing up and down the thousands of stairs you will face.  However, you will need to attach rubber tips or "boots" to the ends of your poles, as the metal tips damage the Inca stonework, and the authorities will not allow you to take the poles with you on the trip without them.  Take extra, as steady use can cause them to split and fall off easily.
• A true waterproof rain jacket- clouds can roll in with rain and cooler weather at a moment's notice, so having a completely waterproof rain jacket is essential.  Keeping your core dry is important to stave off hypothermia.  It also serves as a great outer shell when layered. 
• Two 32 oz. wide mouth Nalgene bottles- During the day I kept my two large Nalgene bottles full of water that I drank on the trail.  At night though, our porters would fill them with boiling water, and we would use them as hot bottle warmers in our sleeping bags.  I am not affiliated with Nalgene in any way, but I can tell you that the tour company stated they would not provide hot water to put in sleeping bags in any other type of bottle because it would melt and potentially leak, rendering the sleeping bag a potential hypothermic hazard.  Neither of my bottles leaked and I was very grateful for the warmth they provided during the nights on the trail.
• A good headlamp- you will use this on multiple occasions throughout the hike.  Whether it's to make an early morning start, find your way around camp at night, or if your team arrives at camp after dark, this is a very useful hands-free tool.  
• A comfortable backpack- test drive your pack with the items you intend to carry every day of the hike, for a decent amount of time.  Try to keep it as light as possible.  Every day will involve several hours of hiking, so what seems like a minor annoyance in one hour could become a huge painful dilemma by the end of the day.
• A warm packable jacket and beanie hat- I used a bright orange marmot jacket (so I could be found easily if something happened) that folded into its own pocket.  I also bought a traditional beanie hat with the side braids in Cuzco prior to the hike instead of bringing one of my own.  I did use it every night on the trail though, and even slept with it on one night because it was so cold. 
• A good weather resistant whistle- I have hiked a lot and never go on a trail without a whistle of some kind either attached to my pack or my clothing near my mouth.   In case of an emergency the sound of a whistle is louder and travels farther that a human voice calling for help.  It also requires less energy to blow a whistle in the event you or someone else is hurt.  The universally recognized whistle codes are:  One blast: “Where are you?”, Two blasts: “Come to me.”, Three blasts: “I need help.”  Be sure to evenly space your blasts to communicate clearly, and to pause after each series of whistle blasts to listen for a response.
• A good camera- The entire hike is so scenic you will want to capture as much of it as possible.  Today, phones have great cameras, so if you have a decent phone there is really no need to carry a heavy camera.  This is a good thing, because the lighter you pack your backpack the happier you will be in the long run.  

As my trip dates drew nearer it was hard to focus on anything else.  Over several weekends, in advance of my departure, I packed my day pack, as I advised above, and went out for some very long treks testing out the weight and becoming familiar with where I had arranged my items both inside and outside my pack.   This familiarization is a good exercise to do before you get on the trail, because you might quickly realize that your initial thoughts on gear placement weren't even close to comfortable or accessible.  In fact, I recall getting caught in a quick downpour, which caused me to make sure I placed my rain jacket at the very top and easy to retrieve.  You see, I had placed the raincoat toward the bottom of my pack, thinking I would need other items regularly.  As I dug for the jacket though, all the items at the top of my pack got wet, including some of my socks which of course is not good.  Some items even fell out and onto the ground, which was no big deal that day, but if they fell out on the trail it might be a different story.  So, lesson(s) learned. 

On my way to Peru, and not just the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

The night before my flight to Peru it was hard to sleep.  I checked multiple times to make sure I had packed all the items I needed.  I was traveling with two bags.  One, was my daypack that I was also using as a carry-on bag, and the other was my North Face (Waterproof) Base Camp Duffel, which the porters would be carrying for me during the Inca Trail 4-day hike. 

My trip itinerary however was not just the hike to the Inca Trail.  It would be 8 days of non-stop activity consisting of sightseeing and touring ruins in Cuzco, traveling by bus and train to the start of the Inca Trail, hiking the trail to Machu Picchu and entering through the Sun Gate, descending into Aguascalientes, and ending in Lima where we would catch a flight to return home. 

DAY 1- Arrive in Cuzco, Peru

Our group arrived at the Aeropuerto Internacional Teniente Alejandro Velasco Astete in Cuzco, Peru on a beautiful sunny morning.  Only two people on the tour knew each other and the rest of had just met several hours prior, at the gate in Miami International Airport as we all waited to board the plane to Cuzco.  As we disembarked from the airline, we were greeted by a slight breeze and a beautiful cloudless blue sky.  The excitement of the group could be felt as we made our way to the baggage claim area.  As we gathered our bags the change in altitude quickly became apparent as several of us noticed we were breathing harder than usual, while trekked our bags out of the airport to the bus waiting to take us to the Plaza de Armas in downtown Cuzco.  

After we stowed our bags underneath and found seats, we made sure to have our cameras at the ready.  As we neared the Plaza de Armas the streets became more and more crowded and active with visitors, taking in as much of the sights as possible, and the locals selling their cornucopia of colorful goods, and tasty treats.  Slowly but surely, we made our way to our hotel pointing out sights to others on the bus and oohing and aahing the entire time.   

As we arrived at the hotel it looked tiny from the outside, but once you entered into the lobby you became aware of just how much was behind that small entrance.  The hotel was the tucked away, colorful Carlos V located at Tecsecocha 490- A, Cusco 08002, Peru (on Google Maps), within about one block walking distance to the Plaza de Armas.

While we were all waiting in the lobby to check-in many of us noticed we were experiencing headaches.  This is due to the altitude in Cuzco which is approximately 11,22 ft (around 3,400 meters).  Having come from basically sea level in Miami, Florida, we had definitely gained some elevation and were beginning to feel some of the effects of altitude sickness.  Some people are more susceptible to altitude sickness than others, and a few of the most common symptoms are:

• Fatigue
• Headaches
• Dizziness
• Difficulty Sleeping
• Nausea
• Loss of appetite
• Vomiting

Overhearing some of our chatter, one of the hotel workers gestured that we should go over to a small buffet area and have some "Coca tea".  Coca tea is an herbal tea made with dry leaves from the coca plant and is consumed to help counteract the effects of altitude sickness.  At our hotel, and throughout the entire trip, the tea was made by placing the dried leaves at the bottom of a cup or glass and pouring hot water over the top.  After letting the tea sit and steep for a few minutes you drink the liquid.  

I was hesitant to try it at first but as my headaches appeared to be worsening, I gave it a try.  It didn't taste great, but it also didn't taste that bad, just like bland tea.  So, what did I do?  I added some sugar of course.  Mary Poppins had the right idea, and it worked perfectly.  To my surprise and others, the tea really did help with the headache, and about 10 minutes later we all began to feel considerably better.  Coca tea had just earned a prestigious place in my daily life throughout the trip.